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Tim Cabradilla
Chez Panisse and Cowgirl Creamery
DAY 1: JACKSON HOLE TO OAKLAND
The day started rather uneventfully. I say this as I am sitting in the Salt Lake City airport waiting for my connection to Oakland, so hopefully that will remain the case.
I was on my way, finally, filled with apprehension and probably too much coffee, to staige at the most hallowed of kitchens: Chez Panisse. The seminal Berkeley dining establishment who’s very name conjured images vegetables perfect in their seasonality, the art of simplicity perfected, and chefs with impeccable technique.
Chez Panisse was opened in 1971 by Alice Waters and some friends. Ms. Waters has always believed that the best tasting food is organically grown and harvested using ecologically sound principles. The cuisine has sought to make diners feel the immediacy of the seasonal produce, demonstrating night after night just how wonderful vegetables right out of the garden or fish plucked right from the sea can be. To some, Chez Panisse has become synonymous with ‘California Cuisine’, and its meaning takes on numerous definitions. The bottom line is this: Chez Panisse has always been innovative and often imitated. It might be argued that one of America’s most important food trends (read: philosophy) started here, because chefs are going back to simplicity; back to honest ingredients; and back to rediscovering rarely used techniques that has for the last 37 years propelled Chez Panisse into the public’s consciousness.
As a cooking school student in San Francisco a number of years ago, I had always heard Chez Panisse spoken of with great reverence, even amongst the chef-instructors. It had established and solidified the career of many a chef including Jeremiah Tower, Paul Bertolli, Mark Miller, Peggy Smith, and Jean-Pierre Moulle, to name but a few. As I began to prepare myself for this latest culinary journey, I began to reflect on what I had learned in the years since I finished school and began seeking out my own style of cooking. I have been lucky to work with and study under a number of excellent chefs and have traveled extensively for the sake of learning. I am confident in my skills, and I know enough about cooking to say I don’t know everything about cooking. So here I was. A few years older? Certainly. A few years wiser? Hopefully. For next week I would need to be a sponge, invisible at times, humble, and hard working. Would Chef Jean-Pierre have me to create something that I wouldn’t know how to create? Would Alice Waters herself deem speak to me and find me lacking? Am I going to get in the way of these working chefs? Have I yet laid enough of a sacrifice of time, sweat, sleepless nights, sore back, reading, tasting, early mornings, late nights, 65 hour weeks, and the justification of leaving my family for some 2 weeks, on the alter to pave my way into culinary nirvana? Hopefully I wouldn’t look like an idiot.
DAY 2: CHEZ PANISSE KITCHEN
I had been told to arrive by Executive Chef Jean-Pierre Moulle at 2pm. I got there about 30 minutes early and waited around, nervously, until it was time to find my may into the kitchen. Chez Panisse sits on Shattuck Avenue between Vine and Cedar Streets in the middle of what has been dubbed ‘The Gourmet Ghetto’, a reference to the sheer number of excellent restaurants and gourmet stores in the immediate area. At the prescribed time I made my way into the kitchen, where I met Chef Jean-Pierre Moulle, the Executive Chef at Chez Panisse for 2 decades. Interestingly, he shares Executive Chef duties with another highly regarded chef, David Tanis. Each chef works 6 months out of the year and during his hiatus, Chef Moulle returns to France to gain inspiration and teach.
Chef Moulle explained to me that the first task would be to have a meeting with the pm chef and discuss the evening’s menu. Chef Jean-Pierre introduced me to the team and then proceeded to discuss the life of Jean-Louis Palladin. Jean-Pierre and Jean-Louis had been friends for many years prior to Jean-Louie’s death. I had not been aware of that previously, and was very pleasantly surprised to hear it. It may also explain why I was allowed to come to Chez Panisse. Chef Moulle spoke of Chef Palladin’s life and style of cooking with great fondness, sharing more than a few stories with a wistful eye. As we continued to talk about Chef Palladin and the evening’s courses, we kept our hands busy by cleaning some nine cases of the most unbelievably fresh fava beans I had ever tasted. Even some of the longer tenured chefs remarked that these were some of the best they had ever had. The favas were to be used for a soup that evening for 70 people! The courses were divided amongst the cooks then discussed in further detail before the menu was finalized. Chez Panisse publishes their menu online a week ahead of time. But, since they are so dependent on the quality of their ingredients (only the absolute best will do) small menu changes are inevitable. The menu format is also unique in that the only option on a particular evening is a 4 course prix-fixe menu, with no choices unless the diner wants a vegetarian option. However, since most people make their reservation more than a week out, the kitchen tries its utmost to satisfy every guest, even if it means cooking something not on the menu. This happened a few times.
THE FAVA BEANS, CHEZ PANISSE
We finally broke and waded into the prep for the evening. My job would be to ‘shadow’ sous chef Phillip, who would be working the pasta station. The kitchen is extremely small and it’s very difficult not to get in the way. As Phillip made and then rolled out saffron pasta dough, I began cleaning fresh anchovies. As I scaled and filleted each fresh anchovy, I hoped desperately that I wasn’t getting in the way or screwing up Phil’s prep. To say my first day was a little intimidating would be an understatement. After cleaning a veritable school of anchovies, we salted and oiled them for use in that evening’s pasta.
My next project would be to help clean whole lambs. After taking them down from their hooks in the walk in, we halved the animals, breaking them all the way down to racks, loins, and boned out legs. I was told that it had taken many years to finally get a local farmer to raise organic lambs and pigs, but the wait was well worth it. In addition to utilizing whole animals regularly, Chez Panisse makes its own prosciuttos and pancettas.
At 6:30 service began. The soup, to maintain it’s vivid color was heated to order. It would be a heavy first seating and then a light second seating. For the most part, as much as humanly possible is finished alla minute. Since the numbers of covers are known prior to the start of service, and each chef is responsible for only 1 dish, plate-ups are relatively easy. Make that, less difficult. The most difficult work is in the prep. As the first seating wound down, I was told that the chefs traditionally take a dinner break at 8pm. That was a little confusing to me. Taking a dinner break in the middle of service? And, as we would do every evening at roughly the same time, we enjoyed a family meal. We literally walked off the line, went to a small office, sat down and enjoyed a family meal made from the evening’s courses. Chef Jean-Pierre insisted that beer and wine be served as well. Talking about the food specifically, and life in general, it was a particularly simple way of demonstrating that food and life go hand in hand.
As the chefs settled back into their stations, I couldn’t help but be extremely impressed by their level of commitment, positive attitude, teamwork, and skills. There’s no yelling here. It’s ‘please’ and ‘thank you’. Talking is kept to a minimum, as everyone is extremely focused on the task at hand. My intimidation began to melt away as I became more involved in the evening’s activity.
Diners are invited in to the kitchen by the wait staff, to observe and converse with Chef Jean-Pierre or any of the countless chefs in the kitchen on a given night. It conveys an air of coming to one’s home for dinner.
DAY 3: CHEZ PANISSE KITCHEN
Our day began again at 2pm. Going over the evening’s menu, it was discovered that we were short-staffed. It was decided that Brian, an extern on his final night, and myself would share the vegetable station. Our dish for the evening would be a ragout of assorted vegetables. The cleaning of vegetables, at Chez Panisse at least, approaches a religious experience. Picking through and discarding if it’s not perfect, it’s why Chez Panisse is what it is. As there are no prep cooks for the evening crew, it’s up to the cooks themselves to clean the myriad assortment of fresh vegetables for the evening:
2 cases of baby artichokes that needed peeling, choked, and quartered; 1 case of baby turnips to be peeled, topped, and then the tops picked of stems; 1 case of fresh spring peas to be picked; 2 cases of baby spinach to be picked of stems; and 1 case of asparagus to be trimmed then cut into batons.
We used the lamb racks and loin/tenderloins from the previous evening’s butchery. Also, an incredibly fresh Columbia River King salmon was utilized. Roasted over fennel and parsley and served very simply with some organic greens, olive oil, and lemon juice, it was a perfectly simple dish. It’s the type of dish for which Chez Panisse has become famous.
There are a number of volunteers in the kitchen myself included. Many of them, seeking prestige and/or the learning of what constitutes a top rate kitchen, are happy to peel, chop, sweep, and watch.
DAY 4: CHEZ PANISSE KITCHEN
I arrived at 1pm today, even though my scheduled time was 2pm. I quickly realized that I had made a mistake, as there was an entire crew utilizing the downstairs kitchen to prep for the upstairs cafe. In addition to the very famous downstairs dining room, Chez Panisse also runs a very busy cafe upstairs. Since there is very limited workspace, the morning crew works downstairs prepping for the upstairs cafe. At 1:30, they finish their prep, clean the kitchen, and are finished by 2pm, for the most part. At 2pm, the evening/downstairs chefs arrive and start their meeting, then prep.
I quickly looked over the list of fresh produce that had arrived that morning and, when I was able, waded into a couple of cases of English peas. I would be assisting in first course that evening. My partner Niko, an excellent cook who had grown up at Chez Panisse- literally, had smoked some impeccably fresh lingcod fillets that afternoon. We would be serving it with a frisee salad. It’s remarkable to see how much the staff tastes everything. To a team member, everything that goes out the door is tasted constantly. I also notice that Chef Jean-Pierre is absolutely the backbone of the team. He constantly brings out the best qualities of his cooks night after night. He accomplishes this by allowing them to use their own individual food passions to make his original idea even better. For that, his cooks greatly respect him. There are line cooks at Chez Panisse who have worked there for over 20 years! I asked one of the longest tenured cooks why he had worked there so long. His reply was, “Because we get to work with best ingredients possible. Everyone gets along, and Jean-Pierre utilizes each cook’s individual strengths and creativity”.
DAY 5: CHEZ PANISSE KITCHEN
Tonight would be my last night working at Chez Panisse. By now I had begun to understand the rhythm of the Chez Panisse kitchen. Arrive. Sit down for a meeting about the menu. Look over the produce list for the day. Determine which of the excellent cooks I would be assisting that evening. Wade into the prep. For the evening’s course, I would be helping with the salad. Fresh Mozzarella made in house, blanched spring asparagus, dried tomato vinaigrette, and marjoram oil. Although not technically demanding, it gave me a chance to concentrate on the quality of the produce and flavor of the dish. Again, I helped out where needed. I tourneed potatoes, blanched and peeled 5 cases of fava beans, helped butcher rabbits, and talked to the pastry department. Like the savory menu version, desserts were extremely creative. I had noticed that many of the desserts weren’t as sugary-sweet as I was accustomed to, and I was told that it was a deliberate action. Like everything else, the desserts were very well balanced. Sugar can mask many of the nuances of fresh ingredients, so Chez Panisse’s desserts are less sweet than one might be used to. I had purchased a nice Chateauneuf du Pape for staff meal to celebrate the end of my staige. This was enjoyed with good conversation and good food. What more could one ask for?
LUCERO FARMS STRAWBERRIES, CHEZ PANNISSE
SYNOPSIS
I look back on my short tenure at Chez Panisse as an incredible learning even life-changing experience. Chef Jean-Pierre pointed out a number of times that he realized that Chez Panisse operated in kind of a vacuum. Most restaurants cannot get the kinds of fresh ingredients that Chez Panisse has at its disposal. He said to realize that the current end-result was forged through 35 years of tracking down and working with local purveyors. Chez Panisse works with some 60+ growers, artisans, and farmers some of which supply only a specific item. I am on sensory overload. I have never tasted fava beans or English peas picked from the ground that very morning; never tasted lamb so succulently sweet; or baby Yukon gold potatoes so creamy and intensely flavored. But that is what Chez Panisse is: It pays homage to the seasons, to the creativity to utilize it, and the will to not compromise. Ultimately I learned that ‘simple food’ is not easy.
PART II: COWGIRL CREAMERY/TOMALES BAY FOODS
I drove up to wine country late on Sunday afternoon, enjoying the warm spring weather. What a difference this was from Jackson Hole! I had begun to remember the days of my youth and adulthood in nearby Sacramento: The blazing hot summers and mild winters, rice fields, tomatoes, traffic, and pollution. Aha. I remember now why I moved. Nonetheless, here there I was rocketing up the ’101, music blaring and re-establishing my freeway driving skills. Petaluma is a small, eclectic town located on the fringe of Sonoma wine country. Its claim to fame is that it was considered at one time to be the egg capital of America. Many buildings, Cowgirl Creamery included, are housed in what used to be commercial chicken coops. I arrived at my hotel, the Metro, and was immediately taken with the place. It’s a crazy mix of French modern, art deco, and countryside all at the same time.
I had been instructed to go to the Ferry Building Marketplace on a Saturday by Sue Conley, owner of Cowgirl Creamery/Tomales Bay Foods. The ferry building is a collection of retail shops and restaurants located on the waterfront. It’s open everyday but on Saturday it becomes one of the biggest farmers markets in the Bay area. Now, I had been to the ferry building on numerous occasions. It houses one of my favorite restaurants (Slanted Door), a wonderful chocolate shop (Schaarfenberger), and the best bread one can purchase in Acme Bread Co. However, I hadn’t been on a Saturday since I had finished cooking school years before. I arrived around nine o’clock and was floored by what I saw. The sheer number of vendors, quality of produce, prices, and numbers of customers in attendance was nothing short of amazing! I cannot recommend with enough vigor my suggestion every chef should attend this spectacle of food. Cowgirl Creamery also runs a retail shop there, so I popped in to say hello and meet with Sue. Tomales Bay Foods is the distribution arm of Cowgirl Creamery. In addition to their own Cowgirl Creamery Artisan Cheeses, they distribute artisan cheeses made by some of the best producers in the world, including affineur Jean d‘Alos, Jasper Hill Dairy, and Cypress Grove Farms.
The restaurant world would become a running theme during my stay with these people. Almost to a person the entire staff of Cowgirl had worked at some point in their lives in the restaurant industry: chefs, pastry chefs, bakers...all were represented. I was instructed to arrive at the Petaluma warehouse at 10am of a tour with Sue and to meet the staff.
DAY 1: COWGIRL CREAMERY, PETALUMA
I arrived at 10am at the Petaluma warehouse, only a block from my hotel. Sue was waiting for me when I arrived, and shortly thereafter I was given a tour of the facility. The Petaluma facility has been open for about 2 years, mainly as a distribution center for Tomales Bay Foods products. Until very recently, all Cowgirl cheese had been made at the Pt. Reyes dairy facility. However, with the new Petaluma dairy coming online Cowgirl was in the process of making Mt. Tam and Red Hawk at the new Petaluma facility. Sue mentioned that the Petaluma area was very favorable for making these cheeses, because of the naturally occurring brevibacterium linens. The Petaluma warehouse is a pretty typical distribution center. It has a cutting room, shipping room for FedEx deliveries nationwide, and vans for personal delivery to restaurants, retail shops, and wineries. What wasn’t typical was that the walk ins were filled with the wonderful aromas of goat, sheep, and cow’s milk cheeses, some made locally and some imported, but all sharing the same principles of small production, ecologically sound growing practices, and organic where possible. Next, I was directed to Lenny, the buyer for Tomales Bay Foods, it’s her job to purchase all of the wonderful items that Tomales sells to their wholesale and retail clients. Today I would be in the cutting room, helping wrap, cut, rewrap, and clean cheeses to be sent out on the trucks or sent via FedEx. This was very interesting. Not all cheese sells quickly, so the cutting staff continuously pulls cheese from the walk in to examine it and see how it’s doing. Sometimes it’s necessary to remove the cheese from its original wrapper, look it over carefully, and finally determine how far along the aging process it has gone. Sometimes, rarely though, it’s necessary to dispose of some cheese. For the most part, older cheeses can be put ‘on special’ for immediate use especially at the restaurant level. Furthermore, Cowgirl has instituted an aging ID process whereby the same cheeses of different ages are sold to different types of customers. For example a chef would ideally want a cheese that is perfectly ripe and mature, ready to cut and serve that evening while a retail shop might want a younger version of the cheese to allow it to sit for a period of time on their shelf. It’s totally unique to Cowgirl, and I’m not aware of any program of its kind. This again shows how their restaurant experience has allowed them to gain great insight as to what a restaurant might need, even to the detriment of a mail order or retail customer. I also met Peg Smith, the co-owner of Cowgirl Creamery. Peg had been a chef at Chez Panisse for 17 years. I knew instinctively that these people were going to be very serious about their cheese.
DAY 2: COWGIRL CREAMERY, PETALUMA
It had been decided before I had arrived for this internship that Sue wanted me to see the Cowgirl operation in its entirety. Therefore, today I would be on the delivery route to Sonoma/Sebastopol area. In addition to delivering cheese to a number of high-profile wineries, we would be delivering to some famous restaurants as well, Cyrus included. I have to admit that I was a little baffled as to why a professional chef (me) would be needed on a delivery route. Surely my time would be better spent making cheese or talking about the differences of true vegetable rennet versus animal rennet, or tasting the incredible number of cheeses that Tomales/Cowgirl has at their command then sagely nodding and saying, “ahhh Jean d’Alos.” (I did taste an obnoxious number of cheeses, which Cowgirl highly encourages) But it slowly began to dawn on me that what I was seeing, in this case the delivery route was extremely important and absolutely relevant to what I was doing. I realized that creating an artisan product in itself is a great thing but unless it’s for strictly personal use, there’s more to the equation. One has to figure out how to get the product into the hands of people who want to use it. How do chefs/restaurants/public find out about these products? It’s the marketing/delivery system. Farmers, at least here in N.California, know that they have an incredible potential resource in Cowgirl Creamery. The artisans can make the products, and if it’s good enough, Cowgirl might purchase their products and in turn sell it to chefs, restaurants, and retail outlets. One of Cowgirl’s best cheeses is the St. George, made by Joe Matos in nearby Santa Rosa. Born and raised in the Azores, his is a true American ‘success’ story. After being a day laborer for a number of years, he had saved enough money to buy some land, cows, sheep, and pigs. He created the St. George to pay homage to the island from where he came. It’s a semi-hard, cow’s milk cheese with incredible depth of flavor reminiscent of cheddar, and it is all hand-made. Ageing for 6-9 months, one can actually taste the terrior and labor that goes into making this cheese, right down to the red lipstick that Mrs. Ma Matos uses to date each wheel.
WHEELS OF THE ST. GEORGE, MATOS FARM SANTA ROSA
DAY 3: COWGIRL CREAMERY, PT. REYES
I left Petaluma behind, and after a quick coffee and muffin I was on the road by 7am. It would be about a 40-minute drive. It was a gorgeous morning, and as the sun came up in the hills, I began to think to myself how extremely privileged I felt to be participating in this type of program. And, at that point, I experienced what’s popularly known as a ‘come to Jesus moment’. Because of what I had seen and experienced during the last week or so, I could already feel my life beginning to change; my philosophy expanding, being questioned, and finally resolve being solidified. I could try harder. There had been too much convenience and too little skill these past few years. I had not taken the road less traveled. I had become too yielding, relying more on the availability of prefabricated products than honest ingredients and doing it the honest way. Is that not what these people have been trying to show me? Among these people, I felt ashamed.
I arrived at the Pt. Reyes facility early and was met by Miguel, who was already in the process of making a batch of cheese, the Red Hawk. Red Hawk is an organic washed rind triple cream that won the 2003 American Cheese Society’s Best in Show, and vaulted Cowgirl Creamery into national prominence. I was met by Sue again, and was given a tour of the facility. Everything is much smaller here than the Petaluma warehouse. The cheese made here moves to the Petaluma station for distribution. Because of the fear of bacterial contamination, one must wear cheese kitchen specific shoes, which must be quickly dipped in sanitizer every time one enters the kitchen. Hands are kept scrupulously clean and latex gloves are worn most of the time. The equipment is sanitized constantly.
Cowgirl makes their cheese thusly: Start with the freshest untreated milk available (in this case the milk comes from an organic source: Strauss Family Dairy) and pasteurize it. This is accomplished by pumping the milk from an outside tank into the pasteurizer. The milk is heated to 150 degrees and held at that temperature for 30 minutes. The milk is then pumped into a cheese vat and chilled to about 92 degrees. A starter culture is then added (Mesophilic) and the milk is allowed to cure for 40 minutes. Rennet is then introduced. Rennet is a coagulant and with its addition, curds will form. The milk is then allowed to ripen for another 40 minutes. After 40 minutes the curd is cut by hand into small squares. After another 5-minute rest, it is stirred for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes of stirring, the curd has to rest again for 10 minutes. The whey, or the liquid residue left after the curd has formed is then drained off. The curd is then washed with fresh water and the temperature of the curd is raised to 92 degrees. Hot washing water is used to raise the temperature of the curd. The curd is then stirred for another 25 minutes. Finally, when the cheese maker has determined that the curd has reached its desired consistency, it’s scooped into plastic molds on the finishing table. The cheese is allowed to drain for 30 minutes, turned, then allowed to drain overnight. The next day, it’s brined in a salt solution. Sound easy enough? As one might guess, I found the cheese makers to be extremely passionate about the cheese. I was told over and over how the cheese is a living thing and must be cared for constantly.
BATCH OF ST. PAT, COWGIRL CREAMERY
I finished the day working in the retail shop. This would come in very handy as the next day I was to travel to the Ferry Building in San Francisco to spend some time in the retail shop there. And, since the Pt. Reyes store was slower, I could taste and work on my cheese wrapping skills in anticipation for a much busier shop the next day. I was shown, more than a few times, how to properly wrap cheese, using tape and plastic wrap. The rind, as it was explained to me, should be able to breathe. So the use of minimal amounts of plastic wrap was what was appropriate. From the standpoint of a chef, I had not been caring for the cheeses I have bought over the course of my cooking career. I had always been shown to ‘properly’ wrap any cheese- the entire cheese- in Sysco plastic wrap...and now I was being told that that was all wrong...It’s a living thing, was whispering in my head. Ok. Lesson learned.
DAY 4: COWGIRL CREAMERY, FERRY BLDG. SAN FRANCISCO
In San Francisco, down on the Embarcadero near Howard, sits the Ferry Building Marketplace. In recent years it has become a food lovers destination. The shops that reside inside the building are eclectic, interesting, commercial, touristy, and serious all at the same time. There is everything from olive oil makers to wine shops to restaurants to a cooking antique store. Cowgirl Creamery operates a retail cheese store here. As with the Pt. Reyes retail shop, it serves, in addition to Cowgirl cheese many Tomales Bay products, as one might expect. As far as cheese shops go, this is the big time. With millions of visitors passing through every year, Cowgirl Creamery products are finding their way across the country. I was given a quick tour of the facility with Laura, the shop manager. Originally trained as a chef, she had been with Cowgirl for 7 years. I donned a uniform and was led to the front counter a.k.a. the barge. All the cheeses in house are displayed atop the barge. I had stopped in a week prior on a Saturday, and it was chaos. This is one of the busiest shops in the Ferry Building, and I was intimidated. I have bartended for a goodly number of years in my career. I have been a waiter on large parties galore. Those were nothing compared to the anxiety I felt as I talked to my first customer in the cheese shop. I’m told that it takes about 3-4 weeks for new employees to settle in to the routine. I’d had a half-day. Basically, when a customer enters the shop they take a number. When their number is called, they come to the barge and are allowed to taste anything on the barge. So, as one might expect, the employee knows a lot about the different types of cheese, cheesemakers, regions, cows, goats, sheep, and local farming techniques. Customers totally rely on recommendations from the staff and the staff rewards them with enthusiastic recommendations. More than a few times I heard “You’ve GOT to try this!” Like anything else, the more one knows about a particular subject- in this case cheese, the easier it is to explain it to another. I was able to answer a few questions, even specific ones about the Red Hawk, since I had helped make a batch the day earlier. I hadn’t thought that working in the retail shop would teach me anything I would need in my chef life, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. I was being shown how the artisan product was marketed then sold to the public. In addition, more than a few chefs walked in to the shop to ask about new items they might try for their own restaurants. Like everyone else they were happily obliged.
RETAIL SHOP, COWGIRL CREAMERY PT. REYES
SYNOPSIS
I have tried to put into words the actual mechanics of what I did on my trip. In addition, I felt it important to share many of the feelings I experienced while doing the work, because isn’t the whole point of this trip to figure out how I can become a better chef? It’s not just about seeing things we’ve never seen before or doing things we’ve never done. It’s about realizing that there are people out there who refuse to do it the easy way. The convenient way. These artisans, as we call them, are willing to do whatever is necessary in order to create the best product possible, even imaginable. I come away inspired, tired (I worked about 80 hours/8 days), injured (my hand got shut in a walk in door), humbled, and grateful. I can’t go back to the way I’ve done things over the past few years. Not to wax too poetic, but now that I’ve seen the light I don’t want to back. I want to create using as much technique as my restaurant allows. I can’t wait to get back to work!
I’d like to thank the JLP Foundation and Ann Brody Cove for making this opportunity possible. In addition, I’d like to thank Chez Panisse and Cowgirl Creamery, especially Jean-Pierre Moulle, Sue Conley, and Peg Smith for their patience, understanding, camaraderie, and time.
Thank you.
Tim Cabradilla
5/8/2008
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